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There are several other important factors that go into successful fruit-tree growing, and none of them are really hard to understand. We could discuss proper light, location, pruning, spraying, and many other aspects essential to fruit growing; however, without fruit tree pollination, they’re all secondary discussions! So make sure your trees and plants are properly pollinated to ensure successful fruit-growing.
What is ‘Fruit Tree Pollination’?
Fruit tree pollination equates to sexual reproduction and fruit development. Without pollination, fruit trees would not bear fruit. After pollination, the pollen germinates once it’s transferred from the stamen (male) to the pistil (female). This results in fertilization*, and the seed develops. Bees play a huge role in the process!
Good pollinators and poor pollinators
Some varieties naturally tend to produce a lot of blossom over a long period, and/or are genetically highly compatible with a lot of other varieties - this makes them good pollinators for other varieties. Most crab apples fall into this category and commercial apple orchards sometimes inter-plant them for this purpose.
Some varieties are very poor pollinators. Bramley's Seedling is a particular case in point, because it is a 'triploid' variety which means its own pollen is ineffective at pollinating other varieties - see below.

Which Fruit Trees are Self-Fertile? Many varieties of fruit trees do not need a pollinating partner to set fruit. The self-fertile trees include all Fig Trees, Nectarine trees, Quinces, Citrus Trees, Sour Cherries, Peach Trees, Persimmons, Passionfruit, all the Berries except Blueberries and the Tamarillos. You only need one of any of these plants to get fruit. Then there are those who are referred to as "partially self-fertile" just to confuse you. They will set fruit on their own but will set more fruit with a cross pollinating partner. Feijoas fall into this category as do some blueberries, some chestnuts, some plums and some olives - see below for specifics.

Pollination Guide to Apples

We don't tend to think about pollinating partners for apple trees however many do require a pollinator. An apple that is flowering at the same time as the tree you wish to pollinate will generally do the job however a more fool proof apple pollinator is an ornamental crab apple tree. John Downie, Jack Humm and Golden Hornet are all excellent varieties. John Downie is the variety that many commercial apple growers use, planting a tree at the end of each row.
The good news is that apple trees and crab apple trees are so widely planted that within a bees 3km radius there is a high likelihood of another pollinating tree flowering at the same time.

Pollination Guide to Plum Trees

Plums are particular about their pollination partners. There are some self-fertile plums, however, most will produce more fruit with the right pollinating partner nearby.[Plum tree pollination guide]

Pollination Guide to Blueberries

Blueberries come in several different families, the Rabbiteye Family, Northern Highbush and Southern Highbush family. When you're selecting blueberries choose different varieties from the same family and ensure they flower at the same time. Eg. Duke and Delite are both early season Northern Highbush varieties so they will pollinate each other.
We stock Rabbiteye varieties because they do best in gardens throughout the country and are the most vigorous. Within the Rabbiteye family we stock Tifblue and Centurion because although they flower at the same time, the fruit ripens at different times giving you both pollination and a longer picking season.

Pollination Guide to Pears & Nashi

Pears are slow growing, long lived trees and they are particular about pollination partners.
 Pears are not widely grown so you can't rely on a pollinating tree in a nearby garden. Their
 blossom is also
 not as full of nectar as apple blossom so given a choice they are further down the bee's list.
Conference and Concorde are two partially self-fertile varieties but will do better with a cross
pollinating partner. Nashi pears are sometimes put forward as pollinators for European pear
varieties. The good news about pear pollination is that although you need multiple trees you can pick
 them so that fruit ripens across the season. 
And finally, Kiwifruit - they require two plants, a male plant and a female plant. The female plant
fruits and the male plant cross pollinates. You will normally find both plants sold together in the
 one pot.
Whether a fruit tree is self-fertile or requires cross pollination by another variety, they still need a
 helping hand from wind, birds, bees or insects to move the pollen from the male part of one flower
to the female part of another flower.
Pollination can be affected by adverse weather. If it is really cold or wet when the flowers are out
 then wind, birds and bees cannot spread the pollen as effectively and this can lead to a poor crop.
 You can transfer pollen by hand with a little paint brush but playing mother nature like this is a
 time-consuming job.
So there you have it folks, the birds and the bees of fruit tree pollination.
Self-fertility The vast majority of apple varieties are self-infertile but there are a few exceptions such as Red Windsor / Alkmene which are self-fertile - they do not require a pollination partner. However, fruiting and fruit quality is usually improved with a suitable partner.
In other species such as apricots, peaches, nectarines, the rule is the opposite - they are invariably self-fertile so you can safely plant just one example. However even self-fertile varieties still need the pollen to be transferred from one flower to another and if bad weather deters pollinating insects the pollination may be poor and you will get a reduced "fruit set".
A number of apple (and pear) varieties are also listed as partially self-fertile. This suggests they should still set some fruit even if there is no pollinating partner nearby, but this is not necessarily the case. In practice partially self-fertile varieties tend to be fully self-fertile if the spring weather is good when the blossom is open, and not self-fertile at all if the spring weather is bad. It follows that if you generally have cold wet spring weather, you should assume even partially self-fertile varieties will be self-sterile in your conditions.
As an aside, self-fertile apple and pear varieties, if not pollinated by a different variety, can be prone to a fruit disorder called bitter pit which makes the fruit rather unsightly. This seems to be related to the lack of pips and / or small pips which occurs in self-pollinated apples. Good quality apples tend to have larger and / or more numerous pips - the result of good pollination. This is the reason why (in the case of apples and pears) it is often best to plant at least two trees (of different varieties), rather than relying on one self-fertile variety.
Relationships
Even if all the other factors are taken care of, some varieties are still not compatible. This is often because there is a family relationship. Thus Golden Delicious - which is an excellent pollinator for many apples because of the duration and quantity of its blossom - will not pollinate Jonagold or Crispin and is a poor pollinator of Gala, mainly because these varieties are closely related to it (very closely related in the case of Jonagold and Crispin).
These relationship incompatibilities operate at a genetic level and are difficult for the non-scientist to follow. However a useful rule of thumb is that you can usually assume traditional varieties from the USA are unlikely to be related to traditional varieties from Europe and vice versa. Thus Golden Delicious, which originated in the USA, is a good pollinator for many heirloom European varieties. This rule breaks down for varieties developed from the late 19th century onwards though, because by then transport and communication links had developed and new varieties were increasingly raised by research stations and knowledgeable amateurs using varieties from both continents.
This self-incompatibility is a particularly important issue with the pollination of sweet cherries, and very complicated to work out. For this reason it is often best to begin your cherry orchard by planting a self-fertile cherry variety, as this will usually pollinate most of the other cherry varieties.
Fruit bud formation
In order to have pollination you have to have blossom ... and in order to have blossom some of the buds must be fruiting buds rather than leaf buds. Perhaps surprisingly, this year's fruit buds are formed the previous summer. Therefore if you have good spring weather but little blossom, the cause is often incorrect pruning the preceding summer.
Conversely, you can encourage a tree that is not producing much blossom to create more fruit buds by tying new branches to the horizontal in early summer - this fools the tree into thinking that it is fruiting, and in turn causes it to set new fruit buds (which will hopefully blossom next spring).

Trees we carry very throughout the year.
We carry:
Cortland Apple
Origin
The Cortland apple resulted from a breeding program at the New York Agricultural Experiment Station. In 1898, the apple variety Ben Davis, known for its cold-hardiness, was crossed with the McIntosh apple, valued for its flavor. Cortland combines the resistance to cold with the flavor and taste of McIntosh. It was distributed in 1915. It is adapted to grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8.
Tree Characteristics
Cortland apple trees are very similar in size and growth characteristics to McIntosh apples. The tree is spreading with an upright, vase-shaped form, medium in vigor and medium in height, with semi-dwarf trees growing 15 to 20 feet tall and spreading 10 to 15 feet wide. The growing season length is about 153 days. The trees have moderate resistance to fire blight and apple scab.

Flowering
Cortland apples have mid-season bloom beginning in April with pink buds followed by abundant white flowers. Trees are partially self-fertile, needing a pollinating cultivar for good fruit set. The following varieties can serve as pollinators: Granny Smith, Golden Delicious, Cripp's Pink, Burgundy, Florina, Grimes Golden, Redfree, Hewe's Crab, and Wickson Crab. Cortland serves as a pollinator for other apple varieties that bloom earlier, mid-season, and later.
Fruiting
Unlike most apple trees, which bear fruit on branch spurs, Cortland apples produce fruit on the end of more slender branches which are about 6 inches long. Preferred pruning for this fruiting style is the open-center or modified central-leader form, leaving terminal fruit-bearing branches unshortened. Trees usually begin to bear after 4 to 6 years. Large red fruits are ready to pick in September. They have a sweet taste with some tartness. Cortlands are reliable annual bearers. Empire Apple tree

Characteristics
Bloom Color White
Fruit Color Red
Fruit Size Medium
Pollination Pollinator Needed
Ripens/Harvest Mid-sept
Shade/Sun Full Sun
Soil Composition Loamy
Soil Moisture Well Drained
Soil pH Level 6.0 - 7.0
Taste Sweet
Texture Firm
Years to Bear 2 - 5
Zone Range 4 - 7

 Granny Smith, Honeycrisp, Jonagold, Northern Spy, Wolf River, Prunus Avium Cherry Bing
, Prunus Avium Cherry Black Tartarian, Montmorency Cherry, North Star Cherry, Persica Peach Red Haven, prunus Salicina plum Burbank etc..

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) Plant Type: Fruit Sun Exposure: Full Sun





Blueberries (Vaccinium) Plant Type: Fruit  Sun Exposure: Full Sun  Soil Type: Any  Soil pH: Acidic







Planting
Blueberries are picky about soil. They require one that is acidic, high in organic matter, and well-drained yet moist. pH should ideally be between 4 and 5.
Bushes should be planted in the early spring. If available, one to three-year-old plants are a good choice. Be sure to go to a reputable nursery.
Dig holes about 20 inches deep and 18 inches wide.
Space bushes about 5 feet apart.
Apply fertilizer one month after planting, not at time of planting.
Care
Mulch to keep shallow blueberry root systems moist, which is essential. Apply a 2-4 inch layer of woodchips, saw dust or pine needles after planting.
Supply one to two inches of water per week.
For the first four years after planting, there is no need to prune blueberry bushes. From then on, pruning is needed to stimulate growth of the new shoots that will bear fruit the following season.
Drape netting over ripening blueberries, so that the birds won’t make away with the entire crop.
Prune plants in late winter, preferably just before growth begins.
On highbush varieties, begin with large cuts, removing wood that is more than six years old, drooping to the ground, or crowding the center of the bush. Also remove low-growing branches whose fruit will touch the ground, as well as spindly twigs.
Prune lowbush blueberries by cutting all stems to ground level. Pruned plants will not bear the season following pruning, so prune a different half of a planting every two years (or a different third of a planting every three years).
Do not allow the bush to produce fruit for the first couple of years. Pinch back blossoms, this will help to stimulate growth.

Harvest/Storage
Blueberries will be ready for picking in late July-mid August.
Don’t rush to pick the berries as soon as they turn blue. Wait a couple days. When they are ready, they should fall off right into your hand. Be aware that full production is reached after about 6 years. Blueberries are one of the easiest fruits to freeze. Learn how to properly freeze blueberries so you can have them all winter long.

​​​Mikes Nursery and Hydroponic Growing Supplies
199 East Fairmount Ave. 
Lakewood, NY  14750
716-763-1612

Blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) Plant Type: Fruit Sun Exposure: Full Sun Soil Type: Sandy Soil pH: Acidic

Blackberries are a very easy fruit to grow. However tempting, do not grow plants unless you are certain they are virus-free since viruses are a widespread problem with blackberries. Select high quality plants from a nursery with a good reputation.










Training blackberries produce vigorous primocanes (first-year vegetative cane) from the crown of the plant rather than roots.  Second year floricanes produce long shaped fruit with relatively small seeds and a highly aromatic, intense flavor.  They are not hardy in northern climates, experiencing damage at temperatures of 13°F in mid winter, and in the 20s°F in late winter/early spring.
Erect blackberries have stiff arching canes that are somewhat self-supporting.  However, they are much easier to handle when trellised and pruned.  Summer prune or tip primocanes to encourage branching and increase fruit production on the second-year floricanes.  Plants can become invasive to an area as it can produce new primocanes (suckers) from the roots.

Blackberries are a very easy fruit to grow. However tempting, do not grow plants unless you are certain they are virus-free since viruses are a widespread problem with blackberries. Select high quality plants from a nursery with a good reputation.


Planting
Blackberries and hybrids are all self-fertile.
Select a site that receives full sun if possible for best berry production.
Soil needs to be fertile with good drainage. Add organic content to enrichen your soil.
Make sure you plant your blackberries far away from wild blackberries that may carry viruses.
For semi-erect cultivars, space plants 5 to 6 feet apart.  Space erect cultivars 3 feet apart.  Space trailing varieties 5 to 8 feet apart. Space rows about 8 feet apart.
Plant shallowly: about one inch deeper than they were grown in the nursery.
Planting may be done in late fall, however, it should be delayed until early spring in very cold areas as it could kill some hybrids.
Care
Trellising and Pruning
Trellises should be constructed for blackberries.
For trailing varieties, explore a two-wire system, running a top wire at five to six feet with a second line 18 inches below the top wire. After the first year, there will be fruiting floricanes along the wires. Train the new primocanes into a narrow row below the fruiting canes. Directing all canes in one direction may make it simpler.
After the fruit harvest period, the old fruiting (floricanes) are removed to the ground. However, unless there is a lot of disease, it’s best to delay removing the old fruiting canes until they have died back considerably. This allows the dying canes to move nutrient back into the crown and roots.mAfter old fruiting canes are removed, train the primocanes up on the wires.mWork with one or two canes at a time in a spiral around the trellis wires. Canes from adjacent plants may overlap a little. No pruning of primocanes is necessary.
In areas with low winter temperatures, leave the primocanes on the ground for the winter where they could be mulched for winter protection.In the spring, after damage of extreme cold has passed, train the old primocanes (now floricanes) up on the wires. Avoid working with the canes in cold weather, as they are more prone to breaking.
Erect blackberries produce stiff, shorter canes that come from the crown and root suckering (forming a hedgerow). A T-trellis works well to support erect blackberries.
Erect blackberries require summer pruning. Remove the top one to two inches of new primocanes when they are four feet tall. This causes the canes to branch, increasing next year’s yields. This will require several pruning sessions to tip each cane as it reaches the four foot height. Primocanes (suckers) that grow outside the hedgerow should be regularly removed.
In the winter, remove the dead floricanes (old fruiting canes) from the hedgerow. Also shorten the lateral branches to about 1½ to 2½ feet.
With primocane-fruiting erect blackberries, cut all canes off just above the ground in the late winter for the best fruit. In the summer, when the primocanes are 3½ feet tall, removed the top 6 inches. The primocanes will branch, thereby producing larger yields in the fall.
Semi-erect blackberries are vigorous and easier to manage on a Double T Trellis. Install four-foot cross arms at the top of a six foot post. Install a three-foot cross arm about two-feet below the top line. String high-tensile wire down the rows, connecting to the cross arms.
These berries need to be pruned in the summer. When the primocanes are five feet tall, remove the top two inches to encourage branching. This will require several pruning sessions to prune canes as they reach the height. In the winter, remove the dead floricanes (old fruiting canes). Spread the primocanes (new floricanes) out along the trellis. Canes do not need to be shortened. However, they can be if they are difficult to train.
Mulching is important throughout the season to conserve moisture and suffocate weeds. Keep a thick layer of mulch surrounding plants at all times.
Water one inch per week.
The roots may keep sending up an abundant amount of shoots (canes). Keep order by pruning away the majority of them so that the survivors can produce lots of berries.

Harvest/Storage
Pick fruits regularly keeping the central plug within the fruit (unlike raspberries)
Although fresh fruit is always best, blackberries can be stored by canning, preserving or freezing.